The Spyropoulos
estate occupies prime vineyard area in Artemisio, on the picturesque
plain that comprises the northern Mantinia appellation zone. The
family's winemaking history on the property dates to 1860. The
original winery with its stone patatiri (crushing floor)
stands behind a modern winery built in 1989.
The
vineyards were revived and trellised by Apostolos Spyropoulos, the
father of thecurrent owner, DMD Nondas Spyropoulos, in 1973. The
estate now features 50 hectares planted with the indigenous
cultivars Moschofílero, Mavroúdi, Agiorgítiko and Lagórthi as well
as Merlot, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
The Spyropoulos
portfolio manages to include five Mantinía OPAP wines. This
preponderance of Moschfílero is accomplished with surprisingly
little stylistic overlap. This diversity is aided, in each case, by
real variety in either vineyard source or vinification method. The
Oreino, for example, is sourced from higher elevation vineyards (the
only non-estate grapes Spyropoulos uses). The skin extraction
achieved in this wine, undoubtedly in order to provide aroma and
flavor that balance a high level of acidity, results in an ethereal
silvery hueñtrue gris, as it were. The Mantinía displays an
uncharacteristically high concentration of fruit in concert with an
uncharacteristically subtle expression of Moschofilero's typical
rose scent. The Mantinía Reserve won a 90 rating in the
August (2001) issue of Wine and Spirits Magazine.
The Fumé, a risky endeavor (but not without a traditional precedent)
shows that Moschofilero can manage 8 months in new oak. The aromatic
complexity of the wine, however, seems at odds with the variety's
subtletyóusually its best feature. The Rosé deserves special
mention. Tannins extracted during skin contact contribute to a bold,
complex wine uniquely compatible with food. Lastly, Spyropoulos
produces a notable Brut (for which there is also a traditional
precedent) described in Tom Stevenson's Millenium Champagne and
Sparkling Wine Guide as the best in Greece.